I am in the cold, drafty heart of a cottage on the far flung island of Inishbofin. If you’ve seen Father Ted, it’s an island that’s smaller than that one. If you’ve seen the Banshees of Inishiren, then you’re closer. Minus the removal of fingers from the fiddle hand, mind you.
It’s my second time back here in two weeks. I came last week for seven days and stayed with two other writers in the four bedroom house I’m in right now. There was an anthropologist, a psychotherapist and an anesthesiologist. At least at first. The anesthesiologist had hoped it would all be less “self-catered” and took off halfway through her stay. She chose to leave on a stormy, windy day. The ferry was delayed in taking her off the island that morning, but we later caught a glimpse of the boat rounding Cromwell’s Barracks as we made our way to the only open pub since the power on the island had gone out and where were we going to go anyway?
So, we watched the little boat pitching up on the waves and motoring away into a wall of rain and wind until out of sight and we went into the dark pub and ordered hot ports and sat at a table and continued talking craft in fiction until the outside grew dim and then the power flickered back on.
Then I left the island for a few days and went back to Dublin for a about three days. But as St. Patrick’s Day grew closer, I felt a strong desire not to get swept up in the chaos and parades and drunkenness. Myself, I have been veering away from that sort of external and internal pandemonium and I just wanted writing and reading and quietude.
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My roommate happens to be a writer as well. She has been living on and off this island for years and always seems to know if a cottage or house is open, which in this case, one was. So the day before St. Patrick’s, I found myself getting on a train to Galway which was so full, so jam packed with Irish heading to the west, that many of us sat or sprawled on the floor. There was a family of five children who camped near me and I was thankful to have remembered my noise cancelling ear phones as three of the children screamed and cried and climbed on me for about two hours. I just read books on my Kindle, occasionally lifted my head up to the window to see the lush landscape from the west rising into view.
The St. Patrick’s Day parade on the island consisted of a few cars following one another on the small road linking the Middlequarter to the West, all honking and flying Irish flags. Then there was a dinner in the community centre with three fiddle players and a guitarist playing music. Maybe 20 to 30 people were in attendance. The day was unusually calm, springlike even.
The rest of the time I’ve been staying solitary and hidden over at the house that was available (a mile from the pub and ferry). Gas is so prohibitively expensive in Ireland now (most heating bills are weighing in at 1200 euro and that’s not using the heat excessively either) that the preference leans to the old fashioned stove for heat. I’ve piled some coal in there, sometimes there’s peat available here, but mostly briquettes, and the flames are deep red and gold and the heat builds in this living room despite the wind chill toppling the outside temps to below zero.
Atlantic rain lashes. Its wind has several sounds it makes. Earlier, the storm was so loud, I thought someone had come in and was in the kitchen loudly unpacking groceries and closing doors. I even called out, “Hello?” with my heart racing a little. But when I went in, all the windows were pummeled with rain, sleet, branches and wind. Mystery solved. The storm had essentially moved in and unpacked.
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My roommate left her cottage this morning on the ferry this morning and assured me the ferry was grand, as in it was ok. No one died. Still, I’m wary about getting out tomorrow morning. We shall see. In the meantime, I’m writing as much as possible and wishing I could extend this for another week without balancing it against work.
But with the bank collapses of late, more possibly looming, I’m not taking any chances of random time off unless it’s an actual trip somewhere. I have less to worry about here, but I still worry. Everyone worries. Especially in America. We are waiting to hear that other shoe drop. Promises (yet again) of Trump’s arrest. Russia, Iran and Saudis, N. Koreans and Chinese all having chats with each other just on the other side.
I’m writing a short story about liminal space between unknown worlds. You leave one familiar world where civilization is defined, or so you think. The main character goes far away to another country where she thinks the notion of civilization is upended. And when she encounters something terrifying and unexpected, the story has her escaping via a perimeter, some boundary between this new world and one even more lost to a lack of definition, one filled with even more danger, so things get murky.
It’s about Bangladesh. A moment I experienced over there. And sketching out a certain structural path into it and then out as I’ve not really tried structuralism before. I want to see what that it like, to draw a map and fictionally write the journey along those lines. Though, I think the conclusion the story will draw is that the space between the liminal is anything but structured.
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I’ve been reading some Paul Bowles lately, it’s true. Also, Denis Johnson’s collection of gonzo travel based non-fiction: Seek.
“Security is a false God. Begin to make sacrifices to it and you are lost.”
— Paul Bowles
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